Tartan
What Makes Tartan Different
Unlike generic plaids or checks, every tartan follows a precise mathematical formula. The sett is a defined series of threads in specific colors and specific counts. For example, a tartan might be defined as: 4 threads of blue, 2 of black, 24 of green, 2 of black, 8 of blue, 2 of black, 4 of red. This sequence repeats, and because the same sett is used in both directions, the pattern is symmetrical along the diagonal.
This is what gives tartan its depth and visual complexity. Where two different colored stripes cross, a third blended color appears. A tartan with five thread colors can produce dozens of distinct color areas across the fabric.
The Thread Count System
Tartans are recorded using a thread count notation. Each color is assigned a letter code (e.g., B for blue, G for green, R for red, K for black, W for white, Y for yellow), and the number of threads for each stripe is listed in sequence. This standardized recording system is maintained by organizations including the Scottish Register of Tartans, which catalogs thousands of registered designs.
Types of Tartan
Within the tartan tradition, there are several categories:
- Clan tartans — associated with Scottish clans and families. The most well-known category. Examples include Royal Stewart, Campbell, and MacDonald.
- District tartans — associated with a geographic region rather than a family. These predate the clan tartan system.
- Regimental tartans — worn by military units. The Black Watch tartan is the most famous example.
- Corporate and commemorative tartans — modern designs registered by organizations, sports teams, or for specific events.
- Fashion tartans — designs created for the garment industry without a specific clan or institutional association.
Color Variations
Most traditional tartans come in multiple color palettes:
- Modern — bright, saturated colors using modern chemical dyes. This is the most common version you'll see in stores.
- Ancient — lighter, more faded tones meant to evoke the appearance of vegetable-dyed cloth from centuries ago.
- Weathered — muted, earthy tones that simulate the appearance of tartan that has been exposed to the elements over time.
- Muted — a middle ground between modern and ancient, with softer but not washed-out colors.
- Dress — a variation that adds white to the sett, originally meant for formal occasions and women's wear.
- Hunting — darker, more subdued colors designed for outdoor wear and concealment.
The Twill Weave
Tartan is traditionally woven in a 2/2 twill weave, meaning each thread passes over two and under two threads. This creates the characteristic diagonal lines (called the "twill line") that run across the fabric. The twill weave is what gives tartan its texture and the subtle blending effect where stripes cross. For a deeper look at the weaving process, see How Tartan Is Woven.
Tartan vs. Plaid
In North America, "plaid" and "tartan" are often used interchangeably, but they are not the same thing. In Scotland, all tartans are plaids, but not all plaids are tartans. A tartan must follow a specific, recorded sett. A plaid is any pattern of crossing stripes. See Plaid vs. Tartan vs. Check for the full distinction.
Tartan in Fashion Today
Tartan remains one of the most enduring patterns in fashion. It appears in everything from formal suiting and school uniforms to punk fashion and streetwear. Designers including Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, and Ralph Lauren have all drawn heavily on tartan. The British punk movement of the 1970s gave tartan an entirely new cultural meaning, while Japanese fashion has adopted it into a wide range of contexts.