Plaid Fabrics Guide
Understanding plaid means understanding fabric. The same pattern looks and feels entirely different in wool, cotton, flannel, or silk. This section covers the major textile families used in plaid production and the weaving techniques that create the patterns.
Woven vs. Printed
An important distinction: the best plaid fabrics are woven, meaning the pattern is created on the loom by arranging different colored threads. Woven plaids are structurally part of the fabric — the pattern is identical on both sides. Printed plaids have the pattern applied to the surface of a solid-colored fabric after weaving. Printed plaids are generally cheaper and less durable, and the pattern appears only on one side. Most traditional tartans, ginghams, and quality flannels are woven.
- Wool and Tweed PlaidsHarris Tweed, worsted vs. woolen, tartan weaving in wool — the heavyweight of plaid fabrics.
- Cotton PlaidsGingham weaving, madras cotton, shirting cotton — lightweight and versatile.
- Flannel FabricCotton flannel vs. wool flannel, the brushing process, weight, and warmth.
- How Tartan Is WovenSett notation, warp and weft, thread count diagrams, and the mills that still do it.