Plaid in British Fashion: From Savile Row to Punk
The Tailoring Tradition
English tailoring has used check and plaid patterns for centuries. Glen plaid, houndstooth, and tattersall all have English or Anglo-Scottish origins and have been staples of Savile Row and country tailoring since the 19th century. These patterns were associated with the landed gentry — checks for country wear, subtler patterns for town. The tweed sport coat in a bold check, worn with flannel trousers and brogues, is an enduring image of English country style.
The Duke of Windsor's influence on men's fashion in the 1920s and 1930s brought glen plaid suits to international prominence. His willingness to wear bold patterns in formal contexts loosened the rules of men's dressing and cemented check patterns as appropriate for business and even semi-formal occasions.
Burberry and the Nova Check
Thomas Burberry founded his outerwear company in 1856. The company's distinctive camel, black, red, and white check lining was introduced in the 1920s. For decades, the check was visible only as a discreet lining inside Burberry's trench coats and raincoats — a subtle signal of quality and taste.
In the 1990s, Burberry began using the check more prominently on exterior products, and it became enormously popular — and then problematic. The pattern was so widely counterfeited and adopted by football hooligans that it acquired negative associations in certain British social contexts. Burberry subsequently pulled back on the check's visibility and rebranded carefully to restore its luxury positioning.
Punk Tartan
Vivienne Westwood's use of tartan in the 1970s punk movement was a deliberate provocation. By taking a pattern associated with the British establishment, the monarchy, and conservative tradition, and pairing it with safety pins, ripped fabric, and anti-authoritarian slogans, Westwood transformed tartan into a symbol of rebellion. Her "bondage trousers" in tartan became iconic punk garments.
The Sex Pistols wore tartan. So did The Clash. The pattern became associated with both Scottish nationalism and English anti-nationalism simultaneously — a neat trick that only fashion can pull off. This punk tartan tradition continues to influence designers today.
Alexander McQueen and Modern British Tartan
Alexander McQueen, born in London's East End, made tartan a recurring element in his collections. His work connected tartan to themes of Scottish identity, violence, beauty, and history — most notably in his "Highland Rape" collection of 1995, which used shredded tartan to comment on England's historical treatment of Scotland. McQueen's approach was more personal and politically charged than any designer before him, and his influence on how tartan is used in high fashion remains strong.