The Complete Guide to Plaid Patterns

The word "plaid" gets used loosely, but it actually covers a wide range of distinct pattern families, each with its own origin story, visual structure, and cultural associations. This guide covers them all.

Before diving in, it helps to understand the basic terminology. "Plaid" in North America is a general term for any crisscrossing pattern of horizontal and vertical lines. In Scotland, "plaid" originally referred to a garment (the great belted plaid), and the pattern itself is called "tartan." A "check" is usually a simpler grid pattern. For the full breakdown, see Plaid vs. Tartan vs. Check.

Pattern Directory

TartanThe original Scottish pattern. Defined by a repeating sequence of colored threads called a sett, woven in a twill weave that produces diagonal lines.
Buffalo CheckBold, equal-sized blocks of two alternating colors. Most famously red and black, with roots in both Scottish and American workwear history.
GinghamA simple two-color check, typically white and one other color, with a lighter color appearing where the stripes overlap. Evokes summer and Americana.
Madras PlaidBrightly colored, loosely woven cotton plaid originally from Chennai, India. Known for its bleeding dyes and preppy associations.
Glen Plaid (Prince of Wales Check)A complex pattern combining small and large checks, originating from the Glenurquhart estate in Scotland. A staple of fine tailoring.
WindowpaneA clean, widely-spaced grid pattern that resembles the mullions of a window. Subtle and elegant in suiting.
HoundstoothA broken check pattern with distinctive four-pointed star shapes at each intersection. Technically a check, closely associated with plaid traditions.
Tattersall CheckA pattern of thin, evenly-spaced lines in two colors on a light background, originating from London's horse market.
BlackwatchThe dark blue and green tartan of the famous Black Watch regiment. One of the most widely recognized and worn tartans in the world.

Understanding the Differences

One of the most common questions in the world of plaid is what exactly separates a tartan from a check from a plaid. The terminology confusion runs deep, especially between British and American English usage. Our detailed comparison page sorts it all out:

Plaid vs. Tartan vs. Check — What's the Difference?

For a deeper understanding of how these patterns are actually created on the loom, see the Plaid Fabrics Guide, and in particular How Tartan Is Woven.

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